Bearded dragons (Lat. Drive vitticeps) are intelligent animals. They are characterized by a unique personality and are extremely friendly to people. They are intelligent enough to recognize the owner and respond to if called by name. They are extremely mild in nature and easily accustomed to the arm. They do not require much care. First 6 months of age they are very fragile.
One of the most peaceful lizards. It belongs to daily lizards so agama is active only during the day. As soon as their lights go out they go to sleep. They are curious, relaxed creatures and look like they enjoy the company of human. They can be great pets for someone who wants a reptile who likes to be held and taken out of his cage.
Bearded agamas have a complexion of skin under their chin, full of barbed growths. They can inflate that fold when they want to be intimidated or when they are scared. Fast-paced head movements express dominance. When they show obedience or desire to mate, they gently shake their heads. They can darken their beards intensely when aggressive and sometimes even before mating.
How to treat Bearded Dragon?
Agamas are generally not aggressive and easy to handle. They are aggressive only if they are scared. With a little patience and tenderness, your new pet will soon become quite tame and friendly.
Do Bearded dragons like company?
As a rule, bearded agamas should be kept alone.
How Long Will Your Bearded Dragon Grow?
In the first year, younger grow to full size, so for a 6 month old agama we need a terrarium of 60 liters, and for a full size lizard at least a terrarium of 100 liters.
Accommodation and care:
A relatively desolate terrarium is a great choice, there are no strict definitions. It is recommended that we cover the terrarium, not to prevent the animal from escaping, but to protect it from children or other pets.
The minimum terrarium dimensions for an adult Bearded dragon are d100 x w50 x v50cm, smaller ones can be placed in smaller terrariums until they outgrow them. For youngest, a terrarium measuring 50x40x30cm is recommended. Although if they have already grown up and are a month and a half older, you can immediately place them in the final terrarium where they will live and grow up. It is advisable to provide some places for hiding young individuals in the form of a cave made of stone, some stump or larger stone. Make sure that these items cannot fall and crush agamas. When they are larger they generally do not need classic shelter. They sleep wherever they like. They often scatter the sand and fall asleep there.
The terrarium should also have good ventilation, preferably diagonal. It is also good to place ventilation on the upper side of the terrarium as well, so that excess temperature can go out .
Several types of substrate can be used. Some use newspapers, paper, etiquette, linoleum, slab stones or fine fine sand. Sand and slab stones are the most natural substrates. Hygiene and maintenance of the substrate must also be kept in mind. The paper backing is used if the individual is quarantined, ie for temporary accommodation, when it is necessary to clean frequently and monitor how much food is eaten and digest quality. This is usually the case when individuals are sick and is being observed for some time due to potential parasites.
We classify bearded agamas as a semiarboreal species, so that the sunbathing area should not be on the terrarium floor itself, but on a small elevation large enough to accommodate the agama for example, a large wooden branch. If using stones, seal it with non-toxic silicone (heat resistant) to prevent the stones from breaking and injuring the pet.
You should create a temperature gradient by heating only one part of the terrarium with a light bulb. The temperature in the warmer part, below the bulb, should be around 40-45 degrees, while in the cooler part it can be 25-30 degrees and even lower. Always use a spot bulb, it has a concentrated beam of light and is heated directly below. The bulb should not be placed too close to the substrate so that the agama cannot reach it and burn itself. Always place some stone under the bulb that would further heat up and maintain the temperature even after the bulb was switched off. If agami needs heating it will lie on the stone and heat up. At night the bulb goes off and the temperature can drop to room temperature, ie up to about 20 degrees. In winter, you can turn them off and leave them at lower temperatures for rest, especially if you plan to steam them next season. Then the temperature can drop to 14-16 degrees without problems. Then they do not feed because they have a slow metabolism and cannot digest food due to low temperatures. Offer every 4-5 days a few super worms or freshly coated bugs for easy digestion.
Adult dragons like to sunbathe on branches and rocks under a sun lamp. The sunbathing area should not be on the very floor of the terrarium, but on a small elevation large enough to accommodate the lizard, such as a large wooden branch. If stacked stones are used, they should be glued with non-toxic silicone (heat resistant) to prevent the stones from breaking and injuring the pet.
Sunbathing light is required to maintain the day and night cycles as well as to heat the sunbathing area (40 – 45 ° C, and slightly lower temperatures for older animals). The temperature of 25 – 30 ° C should be maintained in the cooler part of the terrarium. A source of UVB light is necessary for the synthesis of vitamin D3, without which there is no calcium metabolism in the body of reptiles.
UVB light is a neon tube with UVa and UVb radiation. They are mostly used with 10% or 12% of UVb radiation and are changed once a year because they have a declining effect. At night, all lighting is extinguished so that the lizard sleeps peacefully without light.
Because they come from dry areas, they do not need high humidity. All the moisture that they need can get by bathing once a week in warm water. Pour a few inches of water into the basin and let the agama bathe for about 5 minutes. During the dressing, bathed will be helpful to remove old skin. The moisture in the terrarium should be 30 – 60%.
Food and water
Pogonia vitticeps is mostly insectivorous, but we must also remember to occasionally provide food of plant origin, such as freshly harvested lettuce, hibiscus (especially hibiscus flower), some herbs, etc.
While are young, they reject plant foods for the first few months, and some individuals prefer a particular species and never eat other types of herbs. Care should be taken not to eat sour fruits, cabbage and other hard-to-digest vegetables. Most often they are given carrots, zucchini, various types of lettuce, pumpkin, apple, dandelion, hibiscus… Young agamas are fed for the first 2 months about 2 times a day. The first time they feed up after turning on the light and the second time a couple of hours before extinguishing them so they can digest the food eaten. When they grow up they usually eat every day once. Of course, they may not eat every day, especially in winter.
It is generally best to offer a wide variety of diets, from crickets, flour worms and generally a large number of insecticide-free insects from our yard. Mineral vitamin preparations should be added to the main diet. They are usually powdered and with them are splashes crickets before being offered for food.
The amount and type of diet depends on the age of the agama;
– One month old: feed 2-3x / day; crickets (1 week old, spray once a day)
– One – four months of age: feed 2x / day; (2 weeks old, spray 1x / day)
– Four months to adulthood: feed 1-2x / day; crickets, worms and other insects, lettuce every other day, we can also offer raw meat in smaller quantities once a week (dusting 2 feeds a week).
– Adults: feed every 1-2 days; crickets, all types of worms and insects (except beetles). raw meat and vegetables every other day, (spray 2 feeds a week).
They drink water from a shallow bowl or bowl. We need to change the water daily and if necessary disinfect the container, we can also spray them once a day with pleasant warm water (a fine spray for flowers), especially for newly exposed young people.
Diseases and health problems
These are one of the more resistant agamides, tolerating changes in temperature, humidity. Generally, reptiles are difficult to treat unless there is a veterinarian with the experience and equipment needed. Another problem with reptiles is that when the symptoms of the disease appear, the disease is already well advanced and the problem is large. The best remedy is prevention, so always read and educate yourself about keeping a particular species safe and then when you are sure you can provide it all and take some time to look for it.
Like other reptiles, animals and bearded agamas can have internal parasites. This is generally not the case if the animal is taken from a breeder and you are sure that it is from captivity. The most common agamas from the wild, caught, have parasites, which you by no means notice until it’s too late. They are not agam-hazardous, as long as the gok does not multiply enough to threaten the appetite and fatten the animal. The first symptoms are shortness and unusual rest of the individual. Food rejection, bloody stool, or vomiting. Parasites of this type can only be detected by laboratory examination of feces, which must be done if the animal is from the wild.
A healthy agama must be active and vibrant, with good appetite. Her eyes are clear and she responds to environmental stimuli.
The most common agama diseases are:
– Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD) as a result of Vitamin D3 deficiency, with symptoms of bone decalcification and consequent physical malformations and fractures of the extremities
– digestive obstruction, most commonly caused by ingestion of the substrate or feeding too much
– tail rot – caused by too little humidity in the terrarium and injuries
– internal and external parasites
– inflammation of the respiratory tract caused by bacteria and affected by the cold environment